May 27, 2015
Yesterday a few of you suggested that I work from a smaller pattern to create a well-fitting blouse for my mother.
I had purchased Simplicity 2339 a few years ago and decided to give it a try rather than continuing to tweak my vintage Butterick pattern.
Since the Simplicity is multi-sized (like pretty much all contemporary patterns), I was able to blend the Size 12 shoulders with Size 14 everything else when tracing my pattern. (I used the "B" cup front piece. My mother's upper bust is 35"; her full bust roughly 36".)
Straight out of the gate I added a 1" sloping shoulder adjustment in both front and back. I also took 1/2" off the bottom (outer) edges of the yoke, so that the bottom turns up (like a smile). while the back slopes down.
I skipped the collar this time (this pattern calls for a two-piece collar and a button placket instead of a one-piece collar and facings).
The results are a big improvement on yesterday's muslin.
Without any other alteration, the shoulder seam sits much more forward than yesterday's did.
With sleeves attached:
From the side (a shallow dart provides some shaping):
The right sleeve went on kind of wonky so I removed it. I decided to draft a new sleeve following this Katheleen Fasanella blog post about sleeve cap ease. Basically, the sleeve is fuller in the back (where you need more room for movement) than in front.
My mother couldn't tell the difference when she tried it on. I think I can see a difference, but I also attached it in the round rather than flat. From the back:
With arms crossed in front:
Sleeve from the front (with arm lifted):
So that's how things stand as of today. My mother says she doesn't want her blouse any more fitted than this. I think it looks pretty good. I'm not sure which sleeve to use; it's hard to tell which shape looks better.
As always, your feedback is welcome, and if these are the kind of adjustments you're used to making, I'd especially love the input.
Have a great day, everybody!
May 26, 2015
May 24, 2015
May 21, 2015
May 19, 2015
Would you believe that a few short years ago I couldn't have identified a hibiscus if my life depended on it? Not anymore!
Michael's oversized hibiscus print blazer is finished and you can see him model it this very minute it by simply clicking here.
May 18, 2015
May 15, 2015
May 12, 2015
May 9, 2015
May 6, 2015
Readers, I've made a decision about my wild hibiscus print fabric: I'm going to make an informal summer blazer, using Vogue 9445 (up top) from 1958.
May 3, 2015
Friends, if you're an old movie buff like I am, you're probably a fan of Mary Astor.
Mary was best known as more of a supporting player than a lead, but if you've ever seen The Maltese Falcon, Midnight, The Great Lie (for which she won an Oscar) or The Palm Beach Story, you've seen Mary Astor at her best. What better way to celebrate Mary's hundred-and-ninth birthday than with a very special round of the Internet's favorite pattern-naming game, NAME THAT PATTERN!
Labels: Name That Pattern