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May 27, 2015

Mom's Muslin #2 -- Simplicity 2339



Yesterday a few of you suggested that I work from a smaller pattern to create a well-fitting blouse for my mother.

I had purchased Simplicity 2339 a few years ago and decided to give it a try rather than continuing to tweak my vintage Butterick pattern.



Since the Simplicity is multi-sized (like pretty much all contemporary patterns), I was able to blend the Size 12 shoulders with Size 14 everything else when tracing my pattern.  (I used the "B" cup front piece.  My mother's upper bust is 35"; her full bust roughly 36".)

Straight out of the gate I added a 1" sloping shoulder adjustment in both front and back.  I also took 1/2" off the bottom (outer) edges of the yoke, so that the bottom turns up (like a smile). while the back slopes down.





I skipped the collar this time (this pattern calls for a two-piece collar and a button placket instead of a one-piece collar and facings).

The results are a big improvement on yesterday's muslin.



Without any other alteration, the shoulder seam sits much more forward than yesterday's did.



With sleeves attached:



From the side (a shallow dart provides some shaping):



The right sleeve went on kind of wonky so I removed it.  I decided to draft a new sleeve following this Katheleen Fasanella blog post about sleeve cap ease.  Basically, the sleeve is fuller in the back (where you need more room for movement) than in front. 



My mother couldn't tell the difference when she tried it on.  I think I can see a difference, but I also attached it in the round rather than flat.  From the back:



With arms crossed in front:





Sleeve from the front (with arm lifted):



So that's how things stand as of today.  My mother says she doesn't want her blouse any more fitted than this.  I think it looks pretty good.  I'm not sure which sleeve to use; it's hard to tell which shape looks better.



As always, your feedback is welcome, and if these are the kind of adjustments you're used to making, I'd especially love the input.

Have a great day, everybody!

May 26, 2015

Mom's Blouse -- Muslin 1



For a first stab, this blouse muslin is not terrible.  Frankly, it fits no worse than most of the ready-to-wear tops my mother generally wears.

May 24, 2015

Sewing for Mom + My New Hat



I have the fabric, I have the mother, now I just have to get started.

May 21, 2015

Fabric Shopping With My Friend Lenore!



Meet Lenore -- a super person, talented handbag designer, and FABULOUS friend to go fabric shopping with!

May 19, 2015

Holy Hibiscus! -- Michael Models the Tropical Print Blazer!



Would you believe that a few short years ago I couldn't have identified a hibiscus if my life depended on it?  Not anymore!

Michael's oversized hibiscus print blazer is finished and you can see him model it this very minute it by simply clicking here.

May 18, 2015

Finishing Touches on the Blazer + New Fabric!



Friends, I am happy to report that the blazer is finished -- well, almost finished: I still need to insert the sleeve lining.

May 15, 2015

MPB -- Now 33% BIGGER!



Readers, it was time.

Today MPB got its first-ever upgrade.

May 12, 2015

Sunglasses for Mom et al.



As most of you know, last Sunday was Mother's Day.

May 9, 2015

Sport Jacket Progress + Job Opening at Mood



After agonizing for a day or two about my fabric, I jumped into my sport jacket project and I'm not looking back.

May 6, 2015

What I'm Making With My Hibiscus Print + New Dress Patterns



Readers, I've made a decision about my wild hibiscus print fabric: I'm going to make an informal summer blazer, using Vogue 9445 (up top) from 1958.

May 3, 2015

NAME THAT PATTERN -- MARY ASTOR B-DAY EDITION!



Friends, if you're an old movie buff like I am, you're probably a fan of Mary Astor.

Mary was best known as more of a supporting player than a lead, but if you've ever seen The Maltese Falcon, Midnight, The Great Lie (for which she won an Oscar) or The Palm Beach Story, you've seen Mary Astor at her best.  What better way to celebrate Mary's hundred-and-ninth birthday than with a very special round of the Internet's favorite pattern-naming game, NAME THAT PATTERN!

Apr 30, 2015

Repairing My Parka + What Would YOU Make With This Fabric?



My mountain parka (above) is one of my all-time favorite sewing projects.

Apr 27, 2015

Vogue 8889 Men's Shirt Reveal or "Hello Voile-y"



Friends, I am happy to report that I finished my cotton voile shirt over the weekend.

Apr 24, 2015

Oh, You Beautiful Voile!



Today I started my latest project, a shirt made from the gray floral cotton voile I purchased last month at Elliott Berman.  It's a very delicate, finely woven fabric from France.

Apr 21, 2015

Yee-Haw -- Peter Models the Western Shirt!



Readers, the Western shirt is done, pearl snaps and all!

To see me model it, just click here.
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