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Oct 27, 2016

A Little of This, a Little of That

Readers, this is not a Halloween costume, nor have I joined the Marine Corps -- I'm a couple of decades too old for that.

I found this beautifully constructed, pristine uniform at the Salvation Army and thought it would be great sewing inspiration.  I think the lines of the jacket are particularly elegant; I'm especially fond of the high, nipped waist.  I read that the style dates back to the 19th Century. 

Moving right along, my FIT classes are keeping me busier than I'd expected, though I love the work.  The tailoring is painstaking, and I'm proud to say my pad stitching technique has improved dramatically.   This week I started work on the canvas interfacing and I've now basted said canvas onto the jacket fronts.  Most of what I'm learning is covered in the Roberto Cabrera book, Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Women's WearMy professor does a few things differently but just a few.

Meanwhile, in my draping class, we've been working on pegged skirts (which are fuller on top than at the hem), first with a side seam (immediately below, last week's work) and then without.

For this coming Saturday, we have to present the version without a side seam.  I created a wrap skirt (remember, we only drape the right half of what will be symmetrical garments).  It's fun to come up with different variations and then commit to one.

Here's how my skirt looks unpinned.  The center back seam (at the lower left)  is on grain.  The center front (and beyond) is off grain.   You can see the hip line (drawn in pencil), which starts out perpendicular to the CB seam and then becomes diagonal.  The hip line was originally parallel to the cross grain.

To maintain the volume of the folds, I underlined the entire skirt in a second, stiffer layer of muslin.  Then I added a waistband.   Here's my final skirt, somewhat reminiscent of an upside-down tulip.




I love the volume.  This skirt would look great in a stiff brocade.

On Saturday we'll be draping cowl neck tops, using actual crepe fabric instead of muslin, which I'm looking forward to.  We're at the mid-point of the semester already!

And that's it.  I won't be dressing up for Halloween, though I may wear my Marine Corps uniform around the house.  Why not?

Have a great day, everybody!

Oct 23, 2016

A Pretty Pair of Pockets

I spent most of the weekend catching up on my tailoring work.

Oct 20, 2016

Tailoring Progress, Slow and Steady

I haven't discussed my Ladies Tailoring class much lately because we had a three week break and my focus shifted.

Oct 15, 2016

Draping Drama + My Charm Bracelet!

Sometimes I forget where I originally raised a style-related question, here or on Instagram.

Oct 11, 2016

NAME THAT PATTERN -- The Farewell Tour

Readers, it's a show business truism that you should leave them wanting more.

Oct 8, 2016

Which Blazer Muslin Looks Better On Me?

One of my goals before the end of the year is to complete a wool suit jacket for myself.

Oct 5, 2016

Peter Models the Completed Chalayan Knockoff!

Readers, my Hussein Chalayan cotton poplin knockoff is finished!

Check out the entire photo shoot here!

Oct 2, 2016

Just Knock It Off, Okay?

Readers, even if I could afford it, I'd have a hard time forking over $520 for a white cotton shirt.

Sep 29, 2016

Draping and Tailoring Class UPDATES

This fall I'm taking two classes at Fashion Institute of Technology: Ladies Tailoring III and Draping II.

Sep 26, 2016

Marimekko Pants -- FINISHED!

Friends, the pants are finished!  Below are a few shots Michael took of me in them.

Sep 22, 2016

My Marimekko Pants Project

Last December I bought this intriguing Marimekko panel print at the Chelsea flea market.

Sep 19, 2016

Red Cotton Work Jacket REVEALED!

Readers, not even last Saturday night's bomb explosion (which took place just three blocks from my apartment) could keep me from sharing my new red cotton work jacket with you today.

Please check out the entire photo shoot here.

Sep 17, 2016

You Say Tomato, I Say Cranberry: What Color IS My Jacket?

Friends, did you know that red, specifically aurora red (18-1550), is one of the ten colors featured in Pantone's Fall 2016 Color Report?

Sep 14, 2016

Japanese Pattern Book Project #1 -- The Work Jacket

My next project is going to be the jacket featured on the cover of Men's Clothes For All Seasons, a Japanese pattern book with roughly 22 different men's patterns featured in it.

I hope eventually to try them all.

Sep 11, 2016

Fabulous Flea Market Finds

Could a man wear a charm bracelet?

Should he?
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