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Sep 29, 2016

Draping and Tailoring Class UPDATES

This fall I'm taking two classes at Fashion Institute of Technology: Ladies Tailoring III and Draping II.

We're already about one month into the semester.  After the two intensive classes I took over the summer (Draping I and Flat Patternmaking II) the two evening classes I'm taking now, which meet only once a week, feel like they're moving slowly.  Of course, the benefit of a slower class is that you have more time to absorb the material.  The downside is that it's easy to lose momentum with an entire week between classes; at least, that's how it is for me.

In my draping class, which focuses on soft silhouettes like dolman sleeves and cowl necklines, we spent the first few weeks creating a fitted torso sloper.  We draped our dress form directly rather than working from measurements and creating a flat pattern on paper.  (With draping, you're pinning and marking muslin, then transferring your markings onto paper.)

Pinning out the fullness (these will be darts).

We then traced our paper pattern onto oaktag to create a sturdy fitted torso sloper we will use to trace future patterns.  Next we took the fitted torso sloper and added a dolman sleeve.  We learned how to do this using both the flat patternmaking method as well as the draping method.  Below you can see how we traced the fitted bodice sloper (the back) and added the dolman sleeve following a basic formula.

Here's my fitted torso sloper with the dolman sleeve on the dressform.

For our next class, our assignment is to create a "complete dolman variation" in muslin.  Using the pivot method, I transferred the front shoulder dart to below the bust and added a fitted hip yoke and midriff yoke; the fullness under the bust will be gathered above the midriff yoke.  I also changed the neckline.  I'm using both draping methods and flat patternmaking methods (since I don't have my easy access to the dressform I use in class).

So far, it's looking something like this:

Meanwhile, in my Ladies Tailoring class, we're working on jacket pocket samples.  Below is a sample breast pocket with a single slightly diagonal welt.  Notice that the pattern on the welt is somewhat off -- the stripes should be perfectly parallel with the vertical and horizontal stripes on the body of the jacket.   This is why it's a good idea to make samples first.  It's also why it's a good idea to avoid checks and stripes -- but you know me: I love a challenge!

 We've also made sample piping pockets.

And then added a lined flap.

One of the joys of tailoring class is working in wool: mine is lovely Italian houndstooth I bought six  years ago for Michael at Metro Textiles and never used (and Michael no longer likes the color).  In some ways wool is more challenging: it must be pressed carefully and correctly.  In other ways it's easier: wool tends to be more forgiving and easier to mold and ease.

We won't meet again for a few weeks due to the upcoming holidays, but by our next class I will have already cut my fashion fabric as well as my canvas interfacing and -- hopefully -- completed two side pockets with flaps and one single-welt breast pocket. 

And that's it!  After class on Saturday I'll get to return to my own sewing projects again.

Have a great day, everybody!

Our professor's sample pocket in wool gabardine.

Sep 26, 2016

Marimekko Pants -- FINISHED!

Friends, the pants are finished!  Below are a few shots Michael took of me in them.

Sep 22, 2016

My Marimekko Pants Project

Last December I bought this intriguing Marimekko panel print at the Chelsea flea market.

Sep 19, 2016

Red Cotton Work Jacket REVEALED!

Readers, not even last Saturday night's bomb explosion (which took place just three blocks from my apartment) could keep me from sharing my new red cotton work jacket with you today.

Please check out the entire photo shoot here.

Sep 17, 2016

You Say Tomato, I Say Cranberry: What Color IS My Jacket?

Friends, did you know that red, specifically aurora red (18-1550), is one of the ten colors featured in Pantone's Fall 2016 Color Report?

Sep 14, 2016

Japanese Pattern Book Project #1 -- The Work Jacket

My next project is going to be the jacket featured on the cover of Men's Clothes For All Seasons, a Japanese pattern book with roughly 22 different men's patterns featured in it.

I hope eventually to try them all.

Sep 11, 2016

Fabulous Flea Market Finds

Could a man wear a charm bracelet?

Should he?

Sep 8, 2016

Another NYC Fabric Store Bites the Dust

These are tough times for small independent fabric stores in New York City.

Sep 5, 2016

Hats, Hats, Hurray for Hats!

Friends, the balder older I get, the more I love hats.

Sep 1, 2016

Culling My Fabric Stash for National Sewing Month!

Readers, you probably have heard that September is National Sewing Month.

To celebrate, I decided to spend a few hours doing an inventory of my fabric stash and getting rid of stuff I'm unlikely to ever sew with.  As you can see up top, I had four bags' worth of discards.  Off to the thrift store they went; we kept the dog.

Aug 29, 2016

Home Again + Back to School

I'm home again, readers.

All over Provincetown, where we were on vacation last week, I saw these medallions embedded in the streets (up top), which I interpreted as welcome signs to us creative types. What else could they be?

Aug 18, 2016

Peter at the Manus x Machina Exhibit + New Pattern Book + More Jacket Pics!

Readers, today I finally got my a** over to the Manus x Machina exhibit at the Met Museum Costume Institute.

Aug 16, 2016

Peter Models the Wool Camo Jacket!

Friends, I know what you're thinking:

Peter is sewing camouflage?  This from the person who eschewed G.I. Joe dolls for Barbies?

Well it's true.  And you can see the results right this very minute by clicking HERE.

Aug 14, 2016


Readers, yesterday's sixth annual MPB Day summer event was a hot hit!

Aug 12, 2016

'Twas the Night Before MPB Day + Camo Jacket UPDATE!

Friends, tomorrow's the big day: our sixth annual MPB Day celebration, seventh if you count last March's Winter Frolic.
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